Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Sassa Björg Comes To Paris With Me


I leave Sofia tomorrow for several days at Paris Fashion Week, and I am excited to have a few pieces by Sassa Björg tucked in my travel bag. I love the hip versatile luxury of Mila Ateva's locally-produced designs. They are feminine, edgy, and great for the winter to spring transition. Stay tuned for photos of my fashion and textile explorations in Paris.

'Big Lights, Deep Shades' by Sassa Björg

Saturday, February 25, 2012

Kowtow's Law of Tangents for A/W 2012

'Union Long Sleeve Top' by Kowtow
'Free Spirit' Kimono by Kowtow
'New Oceans Top' by Kowtow
'Whereabouts Cape' by Kowtow
'Panorama Scarf' by Kowtow
'Building Block Full Length Dress' by Kowtow

I love the raw purity and geometric versatility of this latest collection by New Zealand organic fair trade label, Kowtow. 'Law of Tangents' is Kowtow's ninth ready-to-wear collection and is influenced by mathematics in nature and its translation into fabrics. With a real commitment to creating ethical clothing that also appeals to the brainier side of what equals sexy, this Wellington-based label is definitely one to watch. I love that many of their pieces are also referred to as 'building blocks' that one might add to or layer on from season to season.

Kowtow clothing is available online here.


Photography: Boofa @ ihadhippyparents.com  

 Photographer's Assistant: Emma Anderson @ emmaanderson.co.nz

Thursday, February 23, 2012

Off The Grid Runway: Pure Mushroom Volume

via Designers Nest SS12 at Stockholm FW on Ecco*Eco
via The Chocolate Brigade
Mushroom cuff by Mia Hebib via Salted and Styled
via Remash
via Buisson


I know that everyone has been dashing from fashion week to fashion week this past month, but I have been dreaming about pure mushroom volume. Here are some of my favorite finds from the realm of mycology chic.

Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Textile Arts Center's Sewing Seeds Fundraiser



Our good friends at the Textile Arts Center in Manhattan will be hosting a silent auction on Friday evening, 24 February, in order to celebrate and fundraise for their new 'Sewing Seeds' CSA community plant/dye garden in Brooklyn. Some amazing artist/designer creations will be available and all proceeds will go to the development of future 'Sewing Seeds' educational programs.


contact the Textile Arts Center :: rsvp@textileartscenter.com

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

From Vogue Knitting Live To New York Fashion Week


Detail of Tess Giberson AW12-13 at NYFW via Fashionising.com

Please read my recent review of the fiber art and design concepts at Vogue Knitting Live in NYC as well as several sustainable knitwear designers at New York Fashion Week in early February – as featured on Source4Style.

Monday, February 20, 2012

Ariel Clay Reports on Ambika Friendly Furs: Featured by NOW Showcase NY at Capsule Market This Week

With a compassionate network of angora rabbit lovers, fiber spinning co-ops, and work from home crocheters, Ambika Conroy has single handedly created the future of sustainably produced, cruelty-free "fur"


Ambika Friendly Furs is a collection of crocheted, cruelty-free angora wearables – all handmade with a commitment to local and sustainable production. Ambika's story began when she moved to New York from Australia over ten years ago with the idea that she would begin a career in fashion photography. Her real calling became evident when she started crocheting during her downtime on photo shoots. Soon Ambika's colleagues began asking about the skimpy bikinis she was crafting on set and encouraged her to launch, Ambika Bikini. These super-luxe and form-fitting bikinis grabbed the attention of high fashion magazines, graced the covers of Sports Illustrated and Maxim, and resulted in the opening of a downtown Manhattan boutique. Ambika's vision was to create custom bikinis made by local crocheters, but when she had difficulty finding local angora sources, she set out to create her own eco-fiber production.

Hand-crocheted Ambika bikinis are total works of art

Ambika discovered her source for fiber one day when meeting two angora rabbits at a local country fair. She soon realized that in order to fulfill her dream of producing handspun fiber locally she would have to move out of her small Brooklyn apartment to a home that would better suite her and her bunnies. Leaving her thriving bikini business behind for New York State's Hudson Valley, Ambika became fully immersed in raising angora rabbits. She soon found that she could use the soft fur from her rabbits, send it out to local handspinners, and then have it crotcheted by the women she had worked with in her bikini business. 

One rabbit can yield about two pounds of fur each year 
or the equivalent of two hats per shearing

Ambika Conroy gently trimming her angora rabbit friend

Ambika's rabbits are sheared every three months, which is when they naturally molt and their fibers are the longest – allowing for a stronger and denser yarn. She is then able to gather enough fur for a new collection's production by partnering with other angora farmers who practice the same ethical techniques for trimming, raising, and handling of their rabbits. She requires these farmers to have less then twenty rabbits, so that they can have daily human contact, enough space to roam free and exercise, and adequate attention can be afforded to their diet, which accounts for a large part of the quality of the fur not to mention the long-term health of the rabbits.

Angora fur is said to be 800% warmer than sheep's wool
True luxury created with soft angora fiber and cruelty free methods

Most angora comes from China, where angora rabbits are fed poor diets, resulting in a lack of protein needed to grow lustrous fur – as well as being shorn too often, which typically causes their fibers to be too short to twist into a durable yarn. Chinese-produced angora is often combined with synthetic fibers and poor quality wool, which also makes it itchy, shed, and pill over time. Compared to angora rabbits raised in China, cruelty-free angora will never be itchy or shed because the fiber is delicately handled and shorn during the rabbits natural molting cycles, as well as washed with mild detergent ridding it of most allergen causing properties.

A natural "blooming" or "halo" affect will occur 
where the fibers spread to create this fuzzy effect  

As the popularity of angora increases, Amibika Conroy hopes that the facts about angora will come to the forefront as she works to educate consumers about ethical fur. Cruelty-free raised angora rabbits provide a loving alternative to other popular fur animals like goats, sheep, and alpaca since they require less space and provide benefits such nutrient-rich manure and low-impact living solutions.

Ambika Conroy and bunny in layers of compassion

We love that Ambika also works with many of the same women that crocheted her original bikini designs. Her head crocheter, Helen Brown, is seventy-five years old and has been working with the designer for over eleven years. Ambika looks forward to further greening her business by partnering with a wind-powered mill in the Hudson Valley and expanding her collection to include home goods, menswear, jewelry, and eco fiber baby clothes. 

Elieen Moran of NOW Showcase wearing an Ambika Friendly Furs hat
 and Verspertine jacket at MINT Modefabriek in Amsterdam
(photo courtesy of Vespertine)

Ambika Friendly Furs will be featured at NOW Showcase NY (capsule) in Chelsea this week. NOW founder, Eileen Moran, is long-term supporter of cruelty-free fashion alternatives. 

Friday, February 17, 2012

London Fashion: Beautiful Soul's Olivia Rose Collection

'Olivia Rose' collection by Beautiful Soul of London

It is so exciting to see these stunning color contrasts, historically inspired prints, and delicate laces in the new 'Olivia Rose' collection for A/W 2012. Nicola Woods has had an impressive journey as an award-winning ethical fashion designer and textile preservationist, and this latest luxury collection further demonstrates that she truly understands what it means to create a uniquely British collection with timeless modern appeal.

'Olivia Rose' by Beautiful Soul brings ethical luxury to the streets

"Nicola Woods, founder and creative director of Beautiful Soul London, named the AW12 collection ‘Olivia Rose’ after her two grandmothers and drew inspiration from the love letters they each wrote in code to their sweethearts (Nicola’s Grandfathers) whilst separated during the war. As a sign of remembrance to Olivia and Rose, the unique Beautiful Soul London print this season, features the poppy which was a favourite flower of both grandmothers and a symbol of the British Legion campaign which they both supported."

Notting Hill-based Beautiful Soul celebrates the spirit of place

The entire collection is made in England with local sustainable fabrics such as luxurious silks, British wool, soft cotton and British lace produced in Nottingham – as the brand ethos includes supporting the regeneration of UK textile manufacturing. Material remnants are re-purposed as fastenings and embellishments, adhering to the policy of zero-waste, whereby every last thread of fabric is used in the creative process. I look forward to experiencing the Olivia Rose collection in person during my visit to Zip Zone at Paris Fashion Week in early March. Stay tuned for more photos of these beautiful new pieces and fabrics up close.

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

The Good Show Debuts During London Fashion Week





The Good Fashion Show debuts during London Fashion Week this upcoming weekend, and buzz is building around this ethical and sustainable fashion event as well as its multi-media 'Transformations' runway event to be held at London House on February 18. 


Antoinette Saxer, Founder and Managing Director of The Good Fashion Show comments, "The initial idea for The Good Fashion Show began to develop when realizing that the amazing progress and innovation one encounters within the sector of ethical and sustainably produced fashion often remains closed within the industry itself."



Some of my favorite international and UK-based designer labels will be there as well as invited speakers, organic and fair trade vendors, and of course, attendees from the local green scene in London. This milestone event promises to be a refreshing alternative to the scheduled shows on the official fashion week calendar with it's mission to spread the good word about sustainable models of ethical production, eco and fair-trade materials, as well as responsible company practices. 




We look forward to seeing this event become a regular fixture on the London Fashion Week calendar. In the end, shouldn't all fashion shows be good shows? We sure think so. Visit The Good Fashion Show website for more details on the line up for February 18 as well a tickets and travel information.

Tuesday, February 14, 2012

YOD Collection: Slow Fashion Sofia Style


A huge congratulations to YOD designer, Yana Dvoretska, for this poetic and stunning look book shoot for her latest collection. This Sofia-based slow fashion pioneer has incorporated handcrafting techniques that include nuno felting with soft wool, diaphanous, hand-loomed silk from Greece, as well as natural dyes and color recipes that include black tea remnants and Dog rose ('Rosa Canina'). 

'Foliage Print' textiles by YOD

I recently visited Yana in her studio here in Sofia, and she shared the most amazing collection of natural dye materials that she has collected from various regions in Bulgaria and time spent in nature. I love that she views her handmade pieces as memories from these pristine regions, as well as expressions of a life lived simply and in balance.

It is so refreshing to see a designer in Bulgaria openly share her connection to place and in turn be able to create timeless fashion pieces that translate to all cultures and ideas of beauty.

Photos shot at Le Petit Salon in Sofia by Zlatimir Arakliev

Make-up: Boyan Kuzeski

Hair: Veselina Mincheva

Models: Gabriela Dasheva, Rada

Monday, February 13, 2012

GreenShows Favorites at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

Study NY by Tara St. James celebrates sustainably sourced design
Study NY by Tara St. James handknits and handwoven khadi
Ajna by Beryl Man certified organic wool knitwear
Ajna by Beryl Man certified organic wool knitwear
H Fredriksson cape in profile
H Fredriksson saturated eco hues for A/W 2012
reMade USA's reclaimed leather clutches and bags
Celebrity hairstylist Cesar Ramirez working his magic backstage
The up do is crafted backstage with Davines hair product
Soft sustainable style created by Cesar Ramirez and team

Here are some of our favorite looks photographed at The GreenShows by the multi-talented, Nicole Lenzen. Follow the links to learn more about each designer's philosophy, collections to date, and contact information.

H Fredriksson model in profile with hair styling by Cesar Ramirez

You can see all of Nicole' gorgeous photos here
Reflection in slow fashion can be so beautiful

A special thanks to both Nicole and Ariel Clay for all of their help this past week. I will now be transitioning to a few upcoming events and designer profiles here in Sofia as well as previews for London Fashion Week, which starts this Friday.